Showing posts with label lava. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lava. Show all posts

Saturday, 16 August 2014

LAUGAVEGUR trek detailed info & ICELAND general info

 szczegolowe informacje dotyczace treku laugavegur  
 
 detailed info regarding laugavegur trek
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
dlugosc treku landmannalaugar -thorsmork okolo 53km
trasa zajmuje od 2-5 dni (najczesciej 4 dni)
mozliwosc przedluzenia treku o dodatkowe 25km thorsmork -skogar (najczesciej 2 dni)
szlak otwarty: polowa czerwca do poczatku wrzesnia
 
oficjalna strona
 
 .
.
 
 
trek from landmannalaugar to thorsmork 53km / 36miles
walked between 2-5 days, usually 4 days
option to extend the walk from thorsmork to skogar, additional 25km (usually walked over 2 days)
tracks open mid june to beginning of September
 
official website
 
 
 
 
 
 
 etap 1 / stage 1      landmannalaugar - hrafntinnusker   12km/8miles
 
 
Distance 12 km, estimated walking time 4 - 5 hours. Elevation increase 470 meters. From the hut in Landmannalaugar (75 persons, GPS 63°59.600 - 19°03.660) the trail goes through a rough lavafield "Laugahraun". From there on up the slopes of "Brennisteinsalda" and to the plateau. The view offers an incredible spectrum of colours. After 3 - 4 hours you arrive at "Stórihver", a hot spring and almost the only green spot visible in the first day. In most years the rest of the trail from "Stórihver" to "Höskuldsskáli" hut is covered with snow. Chances of fog are very high so even though the trail is clearly marked you must be careful. A walk to the icecaves (approx. 1.5km from the hut) is a must. The huts location GPS 63°55.840 - 19°09.700 and sleeps 36 persons.
 
huts:
 
 
 
 
 

 etap 2  / stage 2    hrafntinnusker  - alftavatn  12km /8miles
 
Distance 12 km, estimated walking time 4 - 5 hours. Elevation decrease 490 m. The first part of the trail takes us through a valley with some small ravines but be careful as they may be filled with snow. If the visibility is good a walk up to the top of mountain "Háskerðingur" (1281 m) will reward your with a breathtaking view. Soon we leave the colourful rhyolite mountains and enter an area with dark palagonite mountains and glaciers. You will also notice a considerable increase in vegetation. The trail down the "Jökultungur" is rather steep but leads down to a friendly oasis on the banks of river "Grashagakvísl" a fine place to rest for a while. From there on the trail to the two huts by the lake "Álftavatn" is on flat land. There are two huts (58 persons, GPS 63°51.470 - 19°13.640).
 
huts:
 
 
 
 
 

etap 3 / stage 3    alftavatn - emstrur (botnar)  15km /9miles
 
Distance 15 km., estimated walking time 6-7 hrs., elevation decrease 40 m. The trail takes us over the ridge "Brattháls" into "Hvanngil" ravine, wading across the river "Bratthálskvísl". In "Hvanngil" are two huts, one built for sheepherders in 1963 and one for tourists, built in 1995. A short walk from the huts is the river "Kaldaklofskvísl" with a bridge for hikers. On the eastern bank of "Kaldaklofskvísl" the trail branches, one branch leading eastwards to "Mælifellssandur" (Road F 210) but the other one southwards to "Emstrur" and we choose the latter. Less than one km from "Kaldaklofskvísl" another river has to be waded and approximately 4 km further we come to the river "Nyrðri Emstruá" but this time there is a bridge to cross it. Soon we will be overlooking the huts in "Botnar" (40 persons, GPS 63°45.980 - 19°22.480). A fine walk in the evening is to the "Markarfljótsgljúfur" canyon.
 
 
huts:
 
 
  
 

etap 4 / stage 4  emstrur (botnar)  - thorsmork
 
Distance 15 km., estimated walking time 6-7 hrs., elevation decrease 300 m. First we have to go around the canyon of "Syðri - Emstruá" and there is a very steep path down to the bridge so be careful. Then a walk through the area known as "Almenningar" with crossing of among other rivers "Þröngá". It is good practice when wading to go hand in hand and head downstream. After crossing "Þröngá" a 30 minutes walk takes us to the hut in "Langidalur" in "Þórsmörk" (75 persons, GPS 63°40.960 - 19°30.890) Landscape and vegetation is changing rapidly. Birchwood and all kinds of plants a welcome change after the desert now behind us. The hut in Thorsmork is Basar huts in Godaland, in Langidalur Hut Skagfjordsskáli and
cottages and huts in Husadalur.
 
 
 
huts
 
 
 
 
OPCJONALNIE / OPTIONAL
 
 
dodatkowe 25km pomiedzy thorsmork I skogar
optymalny czas przejscia 2 dni
nocleg - schronisko fimmvorduhals
 
 .
.
 
additional 25km from thorsmork to skogar
usually walked over 2 days
sleep at fimmvorduhals hut
 
 
 
 
linki do zdjec z tego odcinka  /  links to pic galleries
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
H U T S
 
 
 
 
LANDMANNALAUGAR
The Iceland Touring Association first built a hut in Landmannalaugar in 1951, but the present hut dates back to 1969.  The huts are located about 600 metres above mean sea level at the edge of the lavafield Laugahraun on a few hot springs, which create excellent bathing conditions in a natural brook.

The dwelling hut is two storeys high.  The ground floor comprises a spacey entry, a large sleeping hall, a kitchen, the warden's quarters and a storage room.  Upstairs are three large sleeping rooms and one small.  The house is heated the whole year round and gas is used for cooking.  All neccessary appliances are in the kitchen.  Outside is a large house with WC and showers.  The camping site is to the northeast of the houses.

Landmannalaugar is either the beginning or the end of the hiking trail to or from Thorsmork.  All around the houses are unbelievably beautiful hiking trails, short and long.

The telephone number of the hut from July 1st to September 30th is:  860-3335

GPS co-ordinates: 
63°59.600  19°03.660.
Source:  The ITA website.
 fi@fi.is Tel.: 568 2533
 
 
 
 
HRAFNTINNUSKER
The ITA hut on Mt Hrafntinnusker, Hoskuldarskali, was built in 1977 at 1027 metres above mean sea level.  Among attractions in its vicinity are the ice caves.  The hut comprises the ground floor with a kitchen and sleeping hall, and the attic with 18 mattresses and the quarters of the warden.  The hut accommodates 36 people on both floors, but during bad weather spells, the warden permits people to sleep wherever there is space.

The house is geothermally heated the whole year round and during the presence of the warden, usually during July and August, running, cold water is supplied in the kitchen.  Other times of the year, water has to be fetched from the gully west of the hut or snow has to be melted.  Electricity is supplied by solar cells.  The switch is in the entrance and the electrical supplies last 6 hours after it has been turned on.  Each lamp has switches.  The water pump is also connected to the electrical system.  Visitors are kindly asked to economize.  The gas stoves in the kitchen are connected to gas containers the whole year round.
A two-way emergency radio is located in the entrance.


The latrine is in the immediate proximity of the hut.  The winter latrine is inside the hut.  The kitchen contains all necessary equipment, pots, pans, cutlery, plates, glasses etc.  Sometimes the electrical system fails and technicians have to travel 200 km to repair it, and sometimes the mountain tracks are snowed in and do not allow access.

Peace and quiet is expected between midnight and 07;00 in the mor
ning, unless the warden decides otherwise.  The use of the kitchen during the night is prohibited.  Smoking inside the hut is forbidden.

The environment of the hut is sand, which gets carried into it if its guests do not wipe their feet carefully before entering.  Shoes should be left in the entrance and house shoes should be brought along.  Guests are kindly asked to help the warden to keep the hut clean and tourist guides should emphasize this fact.  During the ten months without a warden, guests must leave a clean hut behind after use.  The camping site is down below the hut and a water tab nearby allows access to water.  Visitors and guests are required to take all rubbish with them to containers at the huts in Landmannalaugar or on lake Alftavatn.  Please do not throw rubbish into the latrines or put it under a stone.

The operation of this hut is expensive.  Therefore it is essential that guests pay for its use.  ITA publishes its rates annually.  During the presence of the warden, he/she collects the fees, but outside that period, guests are asked to leave the money in the box in the entrance.

Geographical co-ordinates (WGS-84):  63.933261 19.168080.UTM (WGS-84):  7090867.1 7589807.4.Geographical co-ordinates (Hjörsey 1955):  63.933571 19.168477
UTM ( Hjörsey1955):  7091076.0 75897691.6
Source:  The ITA website.  
fi@fi.is

Tel.: 568 2533:

 
Hut Hrafntinnusker (lat="63.935368" lon="-19.167315"):
Garbage collection: No
Showers: No
Flush toilets: No
Location: On the mountain side

 

 

 
 
ALFTAVATN
The mountain huts of the Iceland Touring Association on lake Alftavat on the Middle Route were built in 1979 and can accommodate 58 people in sleeping bags.  They are equipped with gas stoves, utensils and running cold water.  One of the huts is reserved for hikers on the trail between Thorsmork and Landmannalaugar.

During summer, the warden of the huts lives in a separate house.  Showers and WCs are in the fourth house and fee is charged for the use of the showers.  The huts are about half-way on the trail and the Middle Route for vehicles is only a stone's throw away.  The beautiful landscapes of the area offer varied hikes, i.e. to the gorge Alftaskard, Bratthals and Torfahlaup.

Lake Alftavatn is deep and decorative.  In the past, whooper swans were hunted there, but after the drowning of the farmer of Fljotsdalur in 1838, witnessed by his teenage daughter, the hunt was abandoned.  It is possible to drive (4x4) along Mt. Torfatindur to the narrow gorge Torfahlaup.
GPS coordinates: 
63°51.470  19°13.640
Source:  The ITA website.  fi@fi.is Tel.: 568 2533
 
Hut Álftavatn (lat="63.856522" lon="-19.227863"):
Garbage collection: Yes
Showers: Yes
Flush toilets: Yes
Location: Next to a lake
 
 
 
 
HVANNGIL
The new Hvanngil Hut offers sleeping bag accommodations for 70 people in four rooms.  The warden’s telephone number is 853 9081.  The Midvegur Route starts at the farm and church site Keldur with its ancient farm houses and Folk Museum.  The road continues across the Langviu Lava Field, River Markarfljot and past Lake Alftavatn, where there are two of the Icelandic Touring Association’s huts for the hikers on the “Laugavegur Hiking Trail”. 
GPS co-ordinates: 
64°50.026  19°12.507.  fi@fi.is
 
 
 
 
 
EMSTRUR (BOTNAR)
The Iceland Touring Association huts Botnar on river South Emstrua accommodate 40 people.  They are equipped with gas stoves, utensils and running cold water.  One of the huts is reserved for hikers on the trail between Thorsmork and Landmannalaugar.

During summer, the warden of the huts lives in a separate house.  Showers and WCs are in the fourth house and fee is charged for the use of the showers.  The huts are about half-way on the trail  Just south of the huts is a pedestrian bridge across the aforementioned river.

A short and rewarding walk takes you to the canyons of river Markarfljot and a mountain track allows 4wd-vehicles access to the huts.
GPS co-ordinates: 
63°45.980  19°22.450.
Source:  The ITA website.
 fi@fi.is Tel.: 568 2533
 
Hut Emstrur (lat="63.767708" lon="-19.373541"):
Garbage collection: No
Showers: Yes
Flush toilets: Yes
Location: On a slope near the valley
 
 
 
 
 
THORSMORK - HUSADALUR
 
 
The Volcano Huts are located in the Thorsmork nature reserve in Iceland, situated in the Husadalur valley, between towering glaciers and volcanoes. The area can best be described as a hikers paradise where you will find endless hiking trails that lead you through beautiful, volcanic landscapes. Here you will experience Icelandic nature at its best and meet interesting people that share your passion for nature and adventure.
Accommodation
The Volcano Huts offer accommodation in small cottages, shared cabin-dorms, private bedrooms and camping grounds surrounded by unique volcanic nature. Whether you are travelling by yourself, with your family or with a group, you should find a suitable accommodation at the Volcano Huts.
Accommodation and other services can be booked through our website www.volcanohuts.com.
Services at the Volcano Huts
Restaurant The LavaGrill is the heart of the Volcano Huts and offers rich and hearty meals, prepared with love and Icelandic ingredients. We offer breakfast, lunch and dinner, homemade cakes and coffee. We can also send you off with a packed lunch or a picnic basket. The bar offers a selection of local beers and cocktails.
Food: The LavaGrill is the heart of the Volcano Huts and offers rich and hearty meals, prepared with love and Icelandic ingredients. We offer breakfast, lunch and dinner, homemade cakes and coffee. We can also send you off with a packed lunch or a picnic basket. The bar offers a selection of local beers and cocktails.
Here, you can linger in the LavaSPA natural hot pool and sauna, read a book from our library or exchange stories with other travelers around the campfire. We have a small playground for the youngest generation and we have trunks, full of toys such as Frisbees, footballs, crocket sets and other fun stuff for people of all ages.
 
 
 
 
THORSMORK - GODALAND -BASAR
Soon after the Touring Association Utivist was founded, its members started contemplating the construction of its first mountain hut in the Godaland area.  A hut there would increase the savety of travellers and facilitate the access to numerous remarkable hiking areas.  The Basar area was mostly intact, only shepherds and a few other people from the nearby counties had visited this nature paradise.

The large hut was built during the period 1980-1981, and the smaller one shortly afterwards.  In the middle of the nineties, a large kitchen and dining hall were added to the large hut.  Immediately after the Utivist settlement in Basar, the development of the camping grounds commenced.


Ever since volunteers have continued working at maintainance and improvements.  The association has published hiking maps with explanations.  The Godaland area comprises a number of hiking possibilities, short and long, easy and more strenuous, if people want to conquer the mountain peaks.  During summer, summer is pipelined to the huts and the WC are open.  The huts are heated with oil and a small hydroelectric power station supples electricity for lights.  The huts accommodate 80-90 people.  Wardens are present from early May to October.

GPS co-ordinates:
N63°40,559' W19°29,014'.
Source:  Utivist website.
Tel.
: 562 1000 head office in ReykjavikBasar Tel.: 893-2910
Camping Isk. 1100.- per persons

 
 
 
 
THORSMORK - SKAGFJORDSKALLI
Mountain hut Skagfjordsskali is located on a flat area at the mouth of Valley Langidalur in Thorsmork, just a stone's throw from river Krossa.  The route there from road # 1 requires jeeps or other robust 4wd vehicles, great care and experience, because of the many unbridged rivers which have to be forded.

Among the many attractions enroute are the gorge Stakkholtsgja and a few others.  Just outside the hut is Mt Valahnukur, which tempts most people to climb and nearby attractions, Storendi, Stangarhals, Hamraskogar, Husadalur, Tindafjoll, Basar, Eyjafjallajokull and many others, offer great hiking possibilities.  Here is also the starting or ending point of the socalled "Laugavegur" hiking trail between Thorsmork and Landmannalaugar.  Hikers on that trail spend nights in the ITA huts in Emstrur, on lake Alftavatn and Mt. Hrafntinnusker.

On the groundfloor of the hut are a spaceous entrance, two small kitchens, a big dining hall, and two sleeping halls with bunks.  In the attic are more bunks.  The hut accommodates 75 people.  Outside are separate houses, one with WC and showers, a pick-nick house for day visitors, small sleeping quarters (2-4), and a shop.  The hut is heated by an oil furnace, which is also used for cooking.  All necessary appliances can be found in the kitchens.

The telephone numbers of the hut from May 15th and September 30th are:  854-1191 & 893-1191.
GPS co-ordinates: 
63°40.960  19°30.890.  fi@fi.is Tel.: 568 2533
 
Hut Lansidalur ("63.684612" lon="-19.512304"):
Garbage collection: Yes
Showers: Yes
Flush toilets: Yes
Location: By the river
 
 
 
 
dla tych, ktorzy maja ochote na wiecej   /  if you still don't have enough..
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 RI V E R   C R O S S I N G S
 
 
Get out early. Cooler overnight and morning temperatures mean that the volume of snowmelt is lower early in the day, which means that streams will flow more slowly. Thunderstorms are also more common in afternoon and make currents more treacherous.
At the Crossing
• Assess the situation. The actual point where a trail meets a river may not be the best place to get to the other side. Scout the river (ideally from an elevated perspective) or look both up- and downstream for alternatives. If you can't identify a safe crossing location, then don't take the risk and turn around. Wishful thinking has no place in this decision, so be conservative and assume the worst. Invariably, streams are faster and deeper than they appear.
• Straight. Wide. Shallow. That's what you're looking for when identifying a place to cross.
• Watch out for debris. If the river is carrying a lot of debris, such as branches and small logs, it's not a good idea to cross. The debris is an indication that stream flows are high. And objects flowing downstream can create a serious hazard if they strike you as you're crossing.
• Look for braided channels. The crossing may be wider where a river breaks into separate channels. But the current's intensity will be dissipated and there may also be small islands or gravel bars where you can take a break and plot your next steps.
• Test the current. Toss a branch and watch how swiftly it moves downstream. That will give you a better sense of the direction of the main current and how fast it's moving.
• Don't cross where flows are much above your knees. Even comparatively shallow water can knock you off balance and carry you downstream if it's flowing rapidly enough. The only time to wade through deeper water is when you locate a flat pool with little or no current.
• Loosen your pack before crossing. Undo your waist belt and let out the shoulder straps so that it's easier to remove. If you fall in and your pack gets soaked, it can drag you down or get snagged. You might lose your pack but consider the alternative.
• Look for low and open exit points on the opposite bank. Once you reach the other side, you'll want to be able to get out of the stream as quickly as possible. A scramble up a steep bank could lead to a slip that puts you right back into the stream.
Crossing the Stream
• Face Upstream and Shuffle Sideways. Slide your feet along the bottom while facing the river. Angle yourself diagonally to the flow and move in a slightly downstream direction toward the opposite bank.
• Always maintain two points of contact with the bottom. Use your poles to steady yourself as you shift your feet. The more contact you have with the bottom, the more stable you'll be.
• There's strength in numbers. Crossing with a partner or with a group of people creates additional stability. Link arms and coordinate your movements.
(source http://hiking.about.com/od/hiking-safety-advice/a/Hiking-Safety-How-To-Cross-A-River.htm)


more info on river crossing
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
S P R Z E T     /   G E A R
 
 
 
Personal equipment:You will need at least one set of clothes to walk in and another dry set to change into at night. It is not always possible to dry clothes in the huts.   Cotton clothing such as jeans, T-shirts, socks and sweatshirts is not suitable for the Laugavegur. Polypropylene, which is quick drying (but can be flammable) or merino wool, which warms even when wet (but dries slowly), is recommended.  
The following gear is essential, no matter how warm it is on the day of departure.• Hiking boots: should be comfortable and well broken in. Raincoat / waterproof jacket, over trousers (wind and water proof) and a woollen had should be taken everywhere in Iceland. Sunglasses are recommended in early summer due to extended snowfields on the track.
• Pack: should be supplied with large waterproof/plastic liner
• Sleeping bag: has to be carried of all guests. Campers need good quality down or hollofil bag as temperatures can drop to 0°C even in midsummer.
• Campers: need to bring all cooking gear as they cannot use the kitchen facilities of the huts.
• Campers: tents should be wind- and weatherproof with attached strings to secure it in case of extreme winds
• Toilet paper is supplied at each of the huts.
• First aid kit: sunscreen, blister kits, pain relief, assorted bandages
• Survival Kit: survival blanket, whistle, paper, pencil, high energy snack food
• Drink bottle: 1 - 2 litre capacity (you need to drink regularly during the day). No water filter equipment is needed.
• Optional extras: GPS navigation device/compass and map, camera, lightweight shoes for in hut and river crossings, hiking poles for steep descents and river crossings, ear plugs for communal bunkrooms (you will be sharing huts with up to 70 hikers).
• Swimwear: is only necessary for the hot spring in Landmannalaugar. Hot springs will be crossed elsewhere on the Laugavegur but are unfortunately too hot and small to bath in.    A little shop with the most essential food can be found during high season in Landmannalaugar and Þórsmörk Langidalur. Apart from that, no food can be purchased along the track.
 
 
more info
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
ROZKLADY JAZDY AUTOBUSOW   /   BUS TIMETABLES
 
 
 
bus hiking passes
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
ISLANDIA -OGOLNE INFO   /   ICELAND -GENERAL INFO
 
 
 
kampingi w islandii  /  campsites in Iceland
 
 
 
stacje benzynowe N1  / N1 petrol stations
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
ONLINE MAPS
 
 
national land survey Iceland
 
 
very detailed / interactive
 
 
some online / pdf maps
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
GALERIE ZE ZDJECIAMI I BLOGI    /   PICTURE GALLERIES AND BLOGS
 
 
 
 
91 days in Iceland  blog & gallery  (very useful)
 
 
 
crossing Iceland by Alastair Humphreys
 
 
 
every trail - laugavegur
 
 
 
landmannalaugar info -OFFICIAL
 
 
 
laugavegur trek description
 
 
 
landmannalaugar weather forecast website
 
 
 
nasze podroze -islandia (gallery)
 
 
 
zlap trop blog (in Polish)
 
 
 
a year in fire and ice blog
 
 
 
rough guides -laugavegur
 
 
 
laugavegurin  OFFICIAL
 
 
 
laugavegur gallery
 
 
 
forum Iceland (in Polish)
 
 
 
photo voyage blog (in French)
 
 
 
vegagerdin - transport / roads info OFFICIAL
 
 
 
Iceland virtual tour
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
WEBCAMS
 
 
landmannalaugar
 
 
various locations
 
 
10 locations
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
LANGUAGE
 
 
common greetings in Icelandic
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
CULTURE
 
 
Icelandic music
 
 
radio stations
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
MOUNTAIN / GLACIER  GUIDES
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
AERIAL TOURS
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Friday, 15 August 2014

ALFTAVATN - BOTNAR (EMSTRUR) - day 2 laugavegur trek

trzeci raz juz to pisze, ale nie, nie zatrzymalysmy sie w alftavatn, ruszylysmy dalej, nogi w koncu mlode mamy :)
odcinek miedzy alftavatn a emstrur (botnar) mozna bardzo latwo opisac: duzo przekraczania rzek, bezkresny I nuzace przejscie pustynia popiolowa, glowne kolory dnia to zielony I czarny, glownie jednak czarny..
 
 
.
.
.
.
 
 
I know i'm saying this third time already but we didn't stay in alftavatn, instead we continued further south. well, our legs were young and ready for a challenge :)
trek between alftavatn and emstrur (botnar) is very easy to describe using few words only: many rivers to cross, limitless neverending ash desert, main colours of the day -green and black, mainly black..
 
 
 
 
 
to co juz przeszlysmy tamtego dnia...   / what we already walked that day
 
 
 

a to co jeszcze przed nami zanim dojdziemy do kolejnego schroniska w emstrur(botnar) ...
   and here's what we still needed to walk that day (to reach next hut in emstrur(botnar)..
 
 
 
 

alftavatn
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

islandzki ninja  /   Icelandic ninja
:)
 
 
 

zaraz po minieciu schroniska alftavatn, zaczelo sie 'zamaczanie'... (conajmniej 4 czy 5 razy..) na poczatku przekraczanie rzek bylo niezla frajda, ale kolejnym I kolejnym razem stawalo sie juz tylko czasochlonnym I meczacym zadaniem
nie musze chyba dodawac, ze wszystkie te rzeczki byly pochodzenia lodowcowego I jesli, tak ja ja macie problem z bolami reumatycznymi, to 'zamaczanie' bywa uciazliwe I malo przyjemne..
rzeczki tego dnia byly rozne - jak ta na zdjeciu plytkie I spokoje, ale rozniez glebokie ' do dupy' I wartkie...
 
 
just after passing alftavatn hut the entertainment began, crossing numerous rivers.. (at least 4 or 5!)
at first crossing rivers was really fun, but then again and again it became just time consuming and annoying.
I will mention that those rivers are glacial rivers, of course, and if you suffer from rheumatic pains then prepare for a wet and painful experience.
we crossed various rivers that day, some (as above) were shallow and calm, some 'bottom high' and fast...
 
 
 
 

bea przekraczala rzeki w sandalach, ja mialam 'buty basenowe' z pianki I to byl duzo lepszy pomysl - nie wpadaly kamienie I stopa byla izolowana od zimna (przez chwilke), co wiecej pianka bardzo szybko schla a buty moglam doslownie zwinac do kieszeni
 
bea crossed rivers in sandals, I had foam 'swimming pool' shoes, and this was much better than sandals, as stones didn't get inside and feet were protected from cold (just for a while) what is more, foam dried very quickly and then I could just roll them into a small pocket
 
 
 
 

dwa wzgorza dalej znow musimy sie rozbierac...    /  'two hills further' we have to undress again..
 
 
 
 

.. no ale niektorzy nie musza :)  /  ...but some definitely do not have to wet their feet...
 
 
 

w ciagu tego jednego dnia krajobtrazy zmienialy sie wielokrotnie: rano ryolitowe wzgorza, potem zielono-czarne surowe gory, potem zielone lagodne goreczki (cos na szkocka modle), potem skaliste pole lawowe a na koniec pustynia czarnego pylu otoczona znow czarno-zielonymi gorami...
 
during just one day we witnessed such great changes in landscape: in the morning -orange rhyolite hills, then green-black mountains, later we passed some gentle hills (very much like Scottish!) just to continue to a rough lava field followed by black ash desert surrounded by green-black mountains again...
 
 
 
 

hvanngil
 
I docieramy do oddalonego o 5km od alftavatn kampingu hvanngil
(nie znam ceny, ale jest woda I toaleta)
 
finally we're reaching hvanngil - campsite situated 5 km south from alftavatn
(I don't know the price, but they have water and toilets)
 
 
 

kamping znajduje sie na skraju pola lawowego, przez ktore wiedzie zawila sciezka...
campsite is situated just on the edge of a rough lava field, we are taking the winding path further ...
 
 
 

.. I trafiamy znow na pylowa pustynie. tak, to droga jest, dla samochodow :)  widzac na mapie ze przez kawalek bedziemy podozac 'droga' poczylam sie zawiedziona naglym zmniejszeniem 'faktora dzikosci'.. niepotrzebnie...
 
.. just to find ourselves on the ash desert again. yep, this is a road, for cars of course :)  seeing on the map, before, that we will follow a road brought a little bit of disappointment, that 'wilderness factor' will decrease... no, not at all...
 
 
 

.. no mowilam ze droga! :)
..yep, I told you it was a road!
 
 
 

a droga ta idzie dokladnie tak :)  na szczescie przekraczanie jej bylo ok, chodz to juz trzecie tamtego dnia.. I nie ostatnie!
.. and the road goes like this :)  fortunately, crossing it was ok, though third that day.. and more to cross ahead..
 
 
 

moje ulubione ostrzezenie, cos na zasadzie: slady opon niekoniecznie sa dobrym wskaznikiem
 
my favourite warning: 'tire tracks do not tell the entire story'
 
 
 
 

na szczescie kolejna rzeka miala juz mostek, ufff, mysl o przekraczaniu tego rwistego potoku niezbyt mi sie podobala...
 
fortunately this river had a bridge built over it, good, I didn't like the idea od crossing this fast stream
 
 
 
 

..problem polegal na tym, ze w oddali widzialam jak rzeczka zakreca I prawdopodobnie przecina nasza sciezke.. a nie widzialam zadnego wiecej mostu... widzialam tez w oddali mala grupke ludzi ktorzy siedzieli przy rzeczce dosc dlugo.. oczywisty wniosek -suszyli sie...   :(
kiedy juz doszlysmy w to miejsce, okazalo sie ze nie jest to ten potok, ale mniejszy doplywajacy do niego, ktory musimy przekroczyc. jedno spojrzenie I wiedzialam ze bedzie ciezko.  dosc gleboko I silny nurt. wiedzialam tez ze nie ma co sciemniac trzeba wyskakiwac ze spodni I miec nadzieje ze woda nie siegnie wyzej niz do tylka..  to bylo najtrudniejsze przejscie na calym treku. woda siegala tak wysoko ze zmoczyla mi bielizne. nurt byl tak szybki ze mysialysmy przekraczac rzeczke razem. kiedy w koncu przeszlysmy moje nogi przeszywal taki bol ze nie moglam sie poruszyc przez kilka minut, nie wiem czy bardziej trzeslam sie z szoku termicznego czy stresu..
ludzie ktorzy przyszli zaraz za nami widzac nas przechodzace od razu rozbierali sie do gatek..
zreszta dowodem na to ze sytuacja byla powazna jest fakt ze nie ma zdjecia...
 
smieszna rzecz robi ludziom islandia: jestes za zadupiu I widzisz przed soba kogos kto ma na sobie czapke, zimowa kurtke ale stoi w mokrych gaciach I sandalach I cieszy sie jak glupi.. I nic cie nie dziwi..  :)
 
 
 
the problem was that from the bridge I saw this river turning sharply and crossing out path again.. didn't see any more bridges thou... I also saw a small group of people sitting on the other side of this river, sitting rather long time... obvious reason- they were drying themselves...  :(
when we walked to the crossing I realised that this is not a main river, just a very large stream joining it. one look and I knew it was going to be hard. it seemed deep and with very fast current. I also knew that fun was over, I needed to undress 'properly', take trousers off and hope for the best (that it's not as deep as to wet my underwear). this crossing was the most hard and difficult ever. water was high enough to wet my underwear, shit! current was so strong that we had to cross together.. and when we finally were on the other side I was in such pain I couldn't move for couple of minutes. i'm not sure if the shivers were caused by thermal shock or just stress...
couple who arrived just after us and saw our crossing undressed without even blinking..
anyway, lack of phottie from this crossing only proves that situation was serious.
 
funny thing that Iceland does to people: you're in the middle of nowhere and see a person in front of you. she wears a hat and winter jacket, but waist down she just wears wet knickers and sandals and laughs happily... and you don't find it bizarre..
 
 
 

nasze rozdygotane serca po przekroczeniu tej ostatniej dzis rzeki ukoil dlugi, nurzacy spacer przez popioly wulkaniczne. naprawde dlugi I naprawde nurzacy. tutaj mozna bylo albo isc droga, albo 'sciac' przez bagienko, obie opcje prowadzily...  do nastepnej rzeki...
 
our stressed hearts has a chance to calm down and slow down again as next stage was a trek along road, on volcanic ash. long trek and very tiring. very long it seemed, indeed. we could either follow the road or just cut thru the 'swamp', anyway both ways took us.. to the next river...
 
 
 

dzieki Bogu za most!   /  thanks God for the bridge!
 
 
 

od tego miejsca juz czulysmy sie dosc zmeczone I zaczelysmy powoli dyskutowac czy damy rade dojsc do emstrur czy zaczynamy rozgladac sie za miejscem na namiot..
 
from this point we were quite tired and started discussing staying overnight, as we were not sure if we would manage to reach emstrur that day..
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

inni-emstrya      rzeczka / river
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

utigonguhofdar
 
 
 

pomiedzy utigonguhofdar a hattfell znajduje sie 'przyjemne' pole popiolowe I jest tam jeden, tylko jeden wielki kamien. wygladal jak swietne miejsce na rozbicie sie na noc. a skoro jestesmy skonane, to sie rozbijamy, w koncu przeszlysmy juz tego dnia okolo 25km, przekroczylysmy 4 rzeki, plecaki waza po 15kg, cieplych posilkow zero. tak wiec rozbijamy sie I jemy! szef kuchni poleca kasze gryczana I gulasz z proszku :)
 
between utigonguhofdar and hattfell we found a 'nice' ash field. there was one gigantic stone, just one, you'll see it and know it instantly. this looked like a good place to spend a night. and as we were tired, we stayed. long deserved rest is always appreciated, we walked 25km that day, crossed 4 rivers, our rucksacks are 15kg each, no hot meals yet. so we pitched the tent and went to the kitchen :)  daily specials: buckwheat and instant powdered goulash :)
 
 
 
 

popiolek jest piaskowaty wiec co wbilam sredzia to zaraz wylazil. przywalilam wiec kamieniem I bylam z tego pomyslu bardzo dumna :)  och jaki wspanialy pomysl, teraz nam sie namiot nie zwali na glowy przez noc!
.. ale okolo 1 w nocy nagle, zerwal sie taki wiatr ze namiot doslownie sie zlozyl! (ha! ale badyle nie pekly! nie ma to jak burzo odporny namiot!) slyszalysmy najpierw dziwny halas w oddali, jakby wycie, apotem wiatr uderzy z wielka sila. wyrwane ze snu zerwalysmy sie I jedna w jednym rogu, druga w drugim trzymamy namiot od srodka. jakis czas zajelo nam dokladne obadanie sytuacji I wydelegowanie 'ochotniczki' na zewnatrz. tak wiec na zmiane wychodzilysmy w poszukiwaniu wielkich kamieni by zwalic je na namiot by nie odlecial :)
 
 
ash was fine and sand-like so as soon as I dug pins into, they were out :(   I got this brilliant idea to secure it with some stones, brilliant , I thought, this will ensure the tent wont collapse during the night!
.. but about 1am, wind came suddenly. we could hear weird noise/howling in the distance and then it hit us with great force. such great force that tent almost collapsed (ha! poles didn't break, nice storm proof tent..) sleep interrupted, we quickly jumped to tent ends and were holding it from inside, bea in one corner, myself in the other. soon enough we figured out that it may blow forever and we cant spend a night just holding the tent :)  so we delegated the 'volunteer' to go outside and try to find some large rocks to secure the tent before it flies away :)
 
 
 

no prosze jakie kamloty, ale namiot wytrzymal I nawet udalo nam sie znow zasnac :)
here you go, beautiful large rocks :) but the tent survived and what was more - we even got some sleep!